|
Matthew Farfan
Lake Memphremagog
is one of the jewels of the Eastern Townships. Reputedly Abenaki
for "Beautiful Waters," or less romantically "the
Great Pond Place," Memphremagog is blessed with some of the
most stunning scenery in the region. The lake stretches 27 miles
(44 km) from below Newport, Vermont in the south, all the way up
to Magog, Quebec in the north. Memphremagog's past is almost as
colourful as the sun that drops behind Owl's Head Mountain at the
end of a clear day, or as the trees that line the shores and turn
bright red and orange in autumn.
 EARLY
HISTORY
During Memphremagog's early history, the lake served as a convenient
canoe route for the Native peoples who inhabited the area. In the
late 1700s, as American pioneers began to push north through New
England into Canada, the lake continued to serve as a vital waterway.
The northern outlet of the lake, the Magog River, flowed into Lake
Magog and the St. Francis River, which in turn flowed into the St.
Lawrence.
Memphremagog during autumn. The view from Vermont.
(Photo: Farfan Collection)
By the mid-1800s, Memphremagog was becoming a vacation resort for
travelers from both sides of the border. At first, the lake was
the playground of the affluent who bought large estates along the
eastern shore, especially around the sleepy hamlet of Georgeville,
and along the shore northeast of Newport. Later the arrival of the
railroads at both ends of the lake (the Passumpsic and the Waterloo
& Magog) brought a constant stream of passengers from Montreal
and all over New England. The boom was on!
 GRAND
HOTELS
Vast luxury hotels were built. In their day, Memphremagog House
in Newport and Mountain House at the foot of Owl's Head were famous
all over North America for their luxury and style. Steamships like
the Mountain Maid and the Lady of the Lake whisked travelers from
one end of the lake to the other. Memphremagog had become the resort
of northern New England and the Eastern Townships. The grand hotels
would eventually disappear, but the boom would continue well into
the 20th century when vacationers began to give way to summer cottagers.
Today, Lake Memphremagog enjoys a mix of full-time residents, cottagers,
and tourists.
Map, 1887. (Source: The Shaybacks in Camp)
MOUNTAINS
AND ISLANDS
What is perhaps most remarkable about the lake is that, despite
its popularity, it has not been spoiled by overdevelopment. It is
just as beautiful as it was 200 years ago. Owl's Head (with a ski
resort on its north face), Bear Mountain, and Mount Elephantis still
loom majestically over the water, and Mount Orford, another ski
resort and the center of a provincial park not far from Magog, rises
into view.
 During
fishing season, anglers flock in droves to the base of Owl's Head,
where the water reaches a depth of over 100 metres (350 feet). Here
trout, landlocked salmon, and (according to fable) the sea serpent
Memphré lurk. The lake's 20 islands still attract sailboat
enthusiasts who moor their rigs off the tree-lined shores. Skinner's
Cave, once the haunt of a legendary smuggler, still gapes its jagged
maw at passing canoeists. The foreboding Province Island, so named
because of the international border (the "province line")
that slices through it, still welcomes flocks of gulls to its long
sandbar.
Opposite: Railroad timetable, 1886. (Photo: Private
Collection)
STORIED PAST
The place names of Memphremagog tell stories as well. One has only
to think of Molson Island to be reminded of the great brewing family
after whom it is named. Some places bear the names of early settlers:
Austin, Magoon Point, Knowlton Landing. Others recall the lake's
Native past: Indian Point, Magog, Wigwam Point…
 One
of two surviving covered bridges in Quebec to cross a lake still
spans the Narrows of Fitch Bay, the long northeast arm of Lake Memphremagog.
Famous St-Benoît-du-Lac Abbey overlooks Memphremagog's western
shore opposite Georgeville. Magog, with its public beach, bustling
nightlife, and picturesque main street, is a vibrant town, particularly
during the summer and peak ski season. Cruise boats in Magog and
Newport still take visitors for excursions up and down the lake.
Cottagers still enjoy the fabulous sunsets over Owl's Head. They
will do so, no doubt, for years to come, as long as Memphremagog
continues to cast its spell on all who look upon it.
Skinner's Cave, c.1910. (Photo: Farfan Collection)
|
